2022代写心得指导加拿大essay 过渡期的女性
简介缝合，绗缝和镶边技术的发展粉色的真丝塔夫绸和粉红色的丝绸缎带。(英语,1660-1670)1660年代和1670年代过渡几十年女人的时尚。那时的时尚女性的服装由一块两个或三个系综的丰富装饰上衣搭配,同时还有丰富的衬裙和半裙。在这段时期里，前襟改变了其功能从一个外罩成为内衣穿在了外面,被保留了下来，比如曼图亚。被保留下来的这一部分功能。主要支撑曼图亚比较松散的非结构化长袍，这种长袍没有任何骨架组织。长袍在前面打开，在前中腰,留下了一个三角形的空隙，这样就能保留了之前可见的三角胸衣。这套双袖保留了handstiched，它贯穿在粉色丝线中，和丝绳一起缝在边缘，骨架部分很好在现实生活中运用，强调了1660年到1670年代的时尚。被保留下来的部分大概有十处，每个部分的主要部分都覆盖着丝带，我们可以在图纸上清楚地看到。底部的骨架延长至腰部，这些细节显示的是后背的形状，以及中间和尾端的形状而不仅仅是其功能性。TransitionaldecadesforwomenIntroductionStitching,Seams,QuiltingandCordingAsleevedpairofstaysandbuskofpinkwateredsilktrimmedwithpinksilktaffetaribbons.(English,1660-1670)The1660sand1670sweretransitionaldecadesforwomen'sfashions.Untilthenfashionablewomen'sdressconsistedofatwoorthreepieceensembleofarichlydecoratedbodicewornwithandequallyrichpetticoatandoverskirt.Itwasduringthistimethatthebodicechangeditsfunctionfromanoutergarmenttobecomeanundergarment,thestays,wornunderanouterlayer,suchasthemantua.Thefunctionofthestayswastobeasupportorstayforthemantuawhichwasalooseunstructuredrobewithoutanyboning.Suchrobeswereopenatthefrontandmetatthecenterfrontwaist,leavingatriangularportionofthefrontofthestaysvisiblewhichwascoveredbyastomacher.Thispairofsleevedstaysarehandstichedthroughoutinpinksilkthread,andalltheedgesareboundwithcordedsilkribbon.Theboningisextremelyfineandarrangedtoachieveandaccentuatethefashionableattenuatedfigurefigureofthe1660tothe1670s.thestaysareconstructedintensections.Themainseamsofeachsectionarecoveredinribbonwhichcanbeseenclearlyinthedrawings.Theboningextendsbelowthewaistline.Thedetailshowsthecenterbackwiththeshapedcentraltabortailofthestaysandsilkribbonswhicharedecorativeratherthanfunctional.Thesleevesareelbowlength,andcutstraightwithoutanyshaping.Theyareattachedatthearmholesbypinktaffetaribbonsmatchingthoseonthetailofthestays.Thesleevesareoptionalandcouldberemovedifdesired.Thebuskwasplacedatthecenterfrontandheldinpositionbylacing,allowingforanadjustmentinfitaswellasprotectingthewearerfromthediscomfortofthelacing.Awoman'sjacketoflinenembroideredinsilkthreadandtrimmedwithbobbinlace.(English,1620s)Narrowbobbinlaceinblackandwhitelinen,insertedbetweentheedgesoftheblacksleeveseams,echoesthecolourschemeofthisblackworkjacketdatingfromthe1620s.Theundyedlinenisembroideredinblacksilkinapatterntypicaloftheearly17thcentury.Scrollingstemsbearingavarietyofflowers,insectsandbirds,workedinarangeofdecorativestitches.Thehighwaistandfairlynarrowsleevesindicatethetransitionperiodbetweenthelong-waisted,tightsleevedstyleofthelate16thandearly17thcentury,andtheshort-waisted,fullsleevedjacketwhichbecamepopularforwomenduringthereignofCharlesI.Pairofpockets,quiltedsilkwithlinentape.(English,1740s)Eighteenthcenturywomen'sgownsdidnotincludepockets.Theywereseparateitemswornunderthehoop,singlyorinapair,suspendedfromatapearoundthewaist.Accesstothepocketsandtheircontentsweregainedthroughopeningsinthesideseamsofthepetticoatsanditsoverlyinggown.Arichbuttercup yellowsilk,quiltedinasimplepattern,makesupthisbeautifulpairofmid18thcenturypockets.Theyarewedgeshapeinform,withbacksofundercoatedyellowsilk.Adiaperpatternfillsthecenter,withascrollingwavedesignaroundtheborder.Awoman'sgownofcordedlinen.(English,1775-1780)Anexampleofabedcoverbeinggivenasecondlifecanbeseeninthisexquisitelycordedlinengownofthelate1770s.Ithasbeenmadefromabedcoverdatingfromthemid18thcentury.Oneedgehasbeentransformedintoaborderoftheskirtwithadenselycordedspiralground,overwhichcurlstylizedfruitsandflowersworkedindiaperquilting.Abovetheborder'sshapedgableedgefloatmorecordedfloralandfruitmotifs.Afinerunningstitchinlinenoutlinesthecompartmentsthroughwhichthecottoncordwasdrawn.Gathers,PleatsandLoopedDraperyAwoman'sgownofprintedcottonwithgoldpolka-dotoverprinting(Dutch,1780s)Thefullnessoftheskirtiscontainedbythetightestpossiblegathersaroundthewaistlineofthis1780sopengownofprintedcotton.Afashionablegownfordaywear,ithasatightlyfittedbodicewithlowdécolletageandelbowlengthsleeves.Theopen-frontedskirtwouldhaverevealedapetticoatofeitheralight-weightsilkormatchingprintedcotton.Thecharacteristiccutandstyleofthe1780scanbeseeninthebackofthebodicewithitsdeeplypointedcentrereachingwellbelowthewaistline.Aman'sformaldaycoatoffeltedwoolwithsilver-guiltbuttons(English,1750s-1760s)Thefashionofthe1740sforextravagantfull-skirtedcoatsmadewithstiffinterliningshaddeclinedbythe1750sand1760s.Thepleatsofthiscoatflanktheopenseamswhichextendfromhiptohemoneachsideofthecoat,andarepartiallyclosedbyapairofbuttonstays.Theopenseamsinmen'scoatswerepartiallyduetothefactthat18thcenturygentlemenwereentitledtocarryasword.#p#分页标题#e#Softlyroundedsidepleatsontheskirtofthisclothcoatarequietfullandhavebeeninterlinedsothattheyhanginheavyfolds.Mantuaandpetticoatofredsilkembroideredwithsilverthread(English,1740-1745)Thisredsilkmantuaisanexamplefortheheightofformalfashionandtheprofessionalembroideress'sskill.Thestyleofthemantuawasperfectlysuitedformaximumdisplayofwealthandart,thewidehooppetticoatacanvasfortheneedle,andfitted,trainedmantuaofferingamplepotentialforelegantdrapery.Collars,CuffsandPocketsAman'sembroideredCourtdresscoatandwaistcoatofembroideredvelvetandsilk(French,1780s-1790s)Thestyleofmen'sdressbytheendofthe18thcenturywasslimandfittedthefigure.Fullsideskirtswithstiffeningandpaddinghadcompletelydisappearedfromcoatstobereplacedwithcurvedorcut-awayfronts,flatpleatsandlongerskirtswhichformedtailsattheback.Sleeveswerelongerandtighterandcuffssmaller.Waistcoatslosttheirskirtsandwerecutstraightacrossatthewaist.Shortstandcollarsappearedoncoatsinthe1760sandbecamefashionableinthe1770swhentheyalsoappearedonmen'swaistcoats.Ascoatcollarsroseinheightoverthenexttwodecades,waistcoatcollarsalmostmatchedtheminsize.Aman'sdresscoatofspriggedsilkvelvetembroideredinsilver-guiltthread(French/Italian,1760s)Thisdresscoatisextravagantlyembroideredinsilver-guiltthread,purlandsequins.Itformspartofasuitwithmatchingwaistcoat.Theembroideryextendsdowneachfrontandaroundthepocketsandtheopencuffs.Thedetailshowsthecuffsfromthebackrevealingarichlyembroideredwhitesatinlining.Amantuaofwhitesatinembroideredandtrimmedwithchenille(English,ofFrenchembroideredsilk,1775-1785)Thislate18thcenturymantuaisdecoratedwithchenilleembroideryandbraidonawhitesatinground.Coloredsilktwistandchenillethreadinapatternofflowersandleavesdecoratethefabric.Awiredbraidofchenillethreadswoundintoashapeofmoreflowersandleaves,trimstheedgesofthesleeveruffles,neckandsidesofthemantuatrain.Ablondandchenillebobbinlaceedgesthebraidandoutlinestheneck.Ithasthecharacteristicwidebandoffabricofthetime,trimmedandgatheredacrossthebackwaist.Thesidepanelshavedisappeared.Thelongtrainisanextensionofthetwopanelsofsilkusedforthebodiceback.Bythe1780sthewidehoophadbeenmodifiedtoaroundshapeofmoremodestdimensions,similartothosewornwithinformaldress.Sleeverufflesremainbutarereducedfromthreetiertotwotier.Aman'swaistcoatofblueribbedsilkembroideredinsilverthread,foilandspangles(English,1730s-1740s)Glisteningsilver-threadembroiderycombinedwithsilverfoilandspanglesdecoratethepocketflapofthissilkwaistcoat.Theembroidereddecorationisapplieddownthefrontedgesandallaroundthepocketsandpocketflaps.Theflaredskirtsofthewaistcoatarestiffenedwithbuckramorhorsehairtoretaintheirshape.Thebuttonsdownthefrontextendfromnecktohemthoughthecorrespondingbuttonholesonlyextendtothewaist.Thedetailshowsapocketflapwhichhasabuttonstitchedoneachcornerandfourstitchedbelowtheflap.Allofthemaredecorative,therearenobuttonholes.Thisoutfitcouldhavebeenapartofaweddingoutfit.KnittingAwoman'sjacketofhand-knittedsilkandsilver-giltwrappedsilk,linedwithbluelinen(English?1630s?)Adeepcoral-pinksilkandyellow,partiallywrappedwithsilver-giltstrip,makethepatternofcurvilinearfloralsprigsonthis17thcenturyknittedjacket.Itiscomprisedofrectangularpanelsofvaryingdimensionswhichconstitutethesleeves,frontsandback.Thedesignhasbeenworkedinstockingstitch,withabasket-patternborderatthehem.Thiseye-catchinggarment,andotherslikeit,posemanyquestionsconcerningtheirmethodanddateofproduction.OpinionsaredividedastowhethertheyareItalianorEnglish,frameorhand-knit.Thedesignconsistsofseparatefloralspraysrenderedinacurvilinearstyle,suggestingadatecomparablewithjacketsembroideredwithsimilarmotifs,thatisthe1630s.Withonlyeightstitchestotheinch,theknittingframewasafairlycrudeinstrumentatthisperiod,andtherewasnomeansuntilthe1730sofaccommodatingthepurlrequiredforribbingorthebasketpatternshownhere.Sothegaugeofseventeenstitchesperinchandtheribbedsquaresatthehemruleoutastockingframeforthisjacket.Whatisperplexingisthestrictlyrectilinearshapingandsawnbindings,ratherthanknittingmethods,tofinishtheneckandfrontedges.Itwouldappearthatknittersinthe17thcenturyhadnotyetdiscoveredhowbesttoexploittheelasticpropertiesofknittingforgarmentscoveringtheuppertorso.Theuseofrectangleswith,insomecases,sawn-ingores,reflectsthetraditionalcutandconstructionmethodsusingwovenfabrics.Thelinenliningandbindingsarealsoconventionalwaysoffinishingedgesandensuringthegarmentkeepsitsshape.Itispossiblethatthesejacketswerepurchasedasasetofpanelsandmadeupathomethusallowingadjustmentstobemadetofitthewearer.WhilethesejacketswereoriginallythoughttohavebeenmadeinItaly,recentresearchintotheknittingindustriesinBritainindicatethatbythethirdquarterofthe16thcentury,thesilkforsuchknitwearwasbeingimportedfromNaplesandmadeupinLondon.#p#分页标题#e#StomachersAstomacherofembroideredsilk(English,1700-1720)StomachersaredecoratedV-shapedpanelswhichcoverthefrontofthebodiceandwereapartofwomen'sdressfromthe16thtothe18thcenturies.Thedetailshowsalavishlyembroideredstomacher.Ithasagroundoflaidandcouchedsilverthreadwithbranchedflowersembroideredinlong,short,satinandchainstitchandFrenchknots.Onverygrandoccasionsstomachersofferedaperfectbackgroundforthedisplayofsuperbjewels.Astomacherofcottonwhitework(English,1730s-1740s)Theentiresurfaceisquiltedandembroideredinlinenthread,inrunningandbackstitchesandFrenchknots.Thebolddesignincludesfloralandleafmotifs,pomegranatesandshells.Thisstomacherwouldhavebeenwornwithadayensemble.Astomacherofembroideredsilkwithlacing(English,1730s-1740s)Asilkstomacherembroideredincolouredsilk,lacedwithsilvercordandtrimmedwithsilverbraid.Thesetoftabsatthebottomandthecriss-crosslacingaresurvivalsfromlate17thcenturystomachers.Ribbonsaresometimesusedinsteadofcord.Thelacesservedadualpurposebeingdecorativeandprovidingandanchoragefortheendsofakerchief.Themeanderingfloralembroiderywasdesignedspecificallyforthestomacherandincludescarnationsworkedinsatin,stemandbackstitcheswithlaidworkinsilverthread.Moststomachersarelinedinplainlinenbutthisoneislinedwithablockprintinmadderdyeofthe1740sor1750s.Astomacherofembroideredsilk(English,1730s-1740s)Acolourfulstomacherembroideredincolouredsilksandsilverthreadinsatinstitchandcouching.Itresemblesthepreviousonethoughitlackslacingandhasabroader,lesselegantshape.GlovesandShoesAgloveofembroideredleather(EnglishorFrench,1610-1625)Silverandsilver-guiltembroideryandfringingdecoratethegauntletofthisleatherglove.Silverguiltspanglesarescatteredbetweentheembroideredmotifs.Avarietyofmetalthreadshavebeenused,creatingsubtlechangesintexture.Toenliventhedesign,partoftheembroideryhasbeenworkedoverpiecesofredsatin.Thepatternisbasedonleafshapesformedbyaraisedpadoflinenstitchesoverwhichthesilver-guiltthreadiscouched.Glovesformenandwomenwereoftenperfumed.Agloveofembroideredleather(French,1660s)Thisrichlydecoratedleatherglovehassilverandsilver-guiltembroideryonthegauntlet.Asthecenturyprogressed,theshapeofthegloveschanged.Thegauntletsbecamesmallerandthefingerslesselongated.Embroidereddecorationoftenrevealedapreferenceforpurelymetalthreadembroidery,thedesignsarrangedinsimpleshapesandusingawidevarietyofthreads.Metalbobbinlaceandsilverandsilver-guiltfringingretainedtheirpopularity.Amittenofembroideredvelvetandsilk(English,about1600)Crimsonsilkvelvetwithrichlyembroideredsilkgauntlets.Theembroideryisworkedinsilverandsilver-giltthreadandpurlwithcouchedwork,andthecolouredsilksareworkedinlongandshortandsatinstitches.Familiarflowers,favouritesoftheembroiderers,suchasborage,pinkandlilies,aswellasinsectsandfruits,scatteredamongelaboratefoliage,decoratethegauntletcuffs.Awoman'sshoeofleatherdecoratedwithbraids(EnglishorFrench,1670s)Narrowredsilkbraidhasbeenmeticulouslyappliedincloseparallellines,tocreateanattractivelinearpatternonthiswoman'sbuffleathershoe.Theuseofdecorativebraidwasapopularfeatureoffashionableshoesinthelate17thandearly18thcentury.Theshoehasanelegantshapewithtapereduppersfinishingwithanarrowsquaretoe.Theheelismoderatelyhighandthrustwellbeneaththefoot.Untilthe1660sand1670sshoesforbothmenandwomenwereusuallyfastenedacrosstheinstepbyribbons.Thisshoehastinyholesinthetongueandlatchesthatprobablyaccommodatedanarrowsilkribbonfinishedwithpointsorasmallbuckle.Thisshoewasprobablyperfumed.Scentedclothinginthe17thcenturywaspopular,andaspersonalhygienewasnotapriority,helpedtomaskbodyodours.Awoman'sslipperofembroideredvelvet(EnglishorFrench,1650s-1660s)Awoman'sslipperofredvelvetrichlyembroideredinraisedandcouchedsilver-giltthread.Anumbernameshavebeenusedforsuchshoesincludingpantoffle,pantacleorpantable.Historicallythesetermshavebeenusedsomewhatindiscriminately.Inthe17thand18thcenturybothmenandwomenworethestyleknownasslipper,butmenhadlowheelswhilewomen'sslippershadeleganthighheels.
